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The ascension of the Aconcagua through the normal route, does not have
any particular technical difficulties, although it could be one of the
hardest challenges you will ever achieve in a lifetime.
Aconcagua is the highest mountain in the western world, a summit within
the seven´s circuit, and a hard proof worth to be tried.
Several authors animate themselves to consider it without exaggerate,
like a little 8000´s. These are one of the reasons because thousands
of enthusiast climbers decided to get there every year as a previous step
to Himalayas, or as a target itself.
Our climbing programmes offers you the best chances to get the top. Allowing
contingency days, and enough time to recover between loads carry etc..The
schedules has been tested during our nine year of experience guiding and
getting the top several times per season in all the conditions.
Aconcagua
Normal route itinerary
Day1: Members should arrive to the airport, where
an AEA Expeditions representative shall be waiting for your convenience,
to be sure you´ll get the right hotel at the right time. During
late afternoon we use to enjoy a welcome brew with the whole group. After
completing the equipment checks, we enjoy a group "welcome" dinner in
Mendoza and good night's sleep after a long day of traveling.
Day2: Near midday, we leave Mendoza towards the
Aconcagua Park permit office,which is located in the central park, and
them in the same vehicle, we bus to Penitentes town. Once been there,
we organize mule loads and spend the night in a refuge dormitory style.
Day3: After one night in Penitentes, we drive
to the entrance of the Aconcagua park, where the rangers check up the
permits, and we fill some forms and we begin the trek into Plaza de Mulas,
spending a night at Confluencia Campsite, which is 10 km away, visiting
the south face, to improve the acclimatization, and begin to dream about
how the summit is. Mules carry all of our gear so we can enjoy the trek
without heavy loads. On the approach, we walk through a huge moraine which
is the deposit of sediments of an aged river, and the glacier erosion
results.
Day 4: Hiking
to Plaza Francia base camp, at the base of Aconcagua´s south face,
which is one of the highest faces in the world. The trek is an excellent
chance to check out or body fitness, cause we reach the altitude of 4200m,
where we use lunch, and after we return to confluence for overnight.
Day 5: We will complete
the hike to the base camp, Plaza de Mulas (4300m), by covering about 30
Km, that takes over 7 hours. During the walk along the Playa Ancha Moraines,
and passing through the base of Dedos Peak, Mexico, Tolosa Valley, Pyramid
Peak( the one where a mummy had been found in 1986, and Cathedral) we´ll
find several streams to cross. We recommend carry a pair of sandals.
As the past days the mules carry the major part of the equipment and food
to base camp.
Day 6: Acclimatization
rest day. Trekking to the lower Horcones Glacier, which is an excellent
ice field to practice self arrest and walks, both activities considered
as a good training to improve our acclimatization as well as funny controlled
slides and be familiarized with our equipment. All the activities
will be monitored for Mountain guides.
We want everyone to have the better chances to get the top.
The only way to do this is to take the time to acclimatize to the high
altitude and low oxygen environment.
Day 7: Following
the philosophy of climb high - sleep low we Carry loads up to Plaza Canada
(4700m) the first real high camp, placed upon a rock tower, It´s
a beautiful campsite with impressive views of the north side of Aconcagua
and the Cerro Cuerno. It´ll be our first day to understand how really
an expedition is, we lunch there and return to the Base Camp for overnight.
Usually takes 4 to 6 hours for a round trip.
Day 8: Acclimatization
rest day.
Day 9: We leave
base camp and climb up the scree slopes pinnacles surrounding the flat
promontory of Camp Canada for overnight. It use to takes 3 to 5 hours.
Day 10: Acclimatization
rest day.
Day 11: Today
we complete another carry of gear and food to Nido de Condores (5500m).From
Canada we make a long ascending traverse crossing Cambio de Pendiente
Camp. 4 hours round trip.
Day 12: Ascent
to Nido de Condores for overnight, this is one of the favorites days of
everyone who attempt the Aconcagua, cause the sensation of been there,
watching a sunset, it´s just extraordinary, an the best pictures
of the mountain are taken during this times.
Day 13: We move
to Berlin Camp(5850m) Where there are tree refuges in perfect conditions
to lodge up to 20 climbers. Depending on how crowded, the area is, we
could change for another high camp to swap. This information is provided
for the rangers who had a check point control at Nido de condors. The
rest of the day will be dedicated to resting, re hydrate and getting ready
for the summit day.
Day 14: Summit
day!! If weather permits. We normally departs early about 5 o clock, at
least, all the members will be walking, and excited in the dark of night,
the most important day of the whole trip use to begins before sunrise
and finishes at 5 in the afternoon.
All around we'll consist in more than hundred 5000m peaks
including, Mercedario (6770m) Tupungato(6800m) and Juncal(6300m)
Day 15: Second
summit attempt in case of poor weather.
Day 16: Descent
to Plaza de Mulas. Especial and merely dinner will be served,could be
a champagne to celebrate our summit!!! Speeches are responsibility of
the climbers so, be prepared to not ashamed us!!.4 Hs.
Day 17: Walk out
to Puente del Inca-Drive to Mendoza. Enjoy delicious Asado Criollo with
the whole team, traditional celebrations are a part of the Mendoza nigh,
and we can be a part of them. Spend night in Mendoza.
Day 18: Transfer
to the airport or bus terminal.
Challenging
Expedition
Fitness level required: Excellent,
excelent equilibrium required
Departures
and price list 2006 - 2007
Price
Includes
Two hotel nights accommodation in Mendoza,
breakfast included
One refuge night accommodation in Penitentes all meals included.
Transfer Mendoza - Puente del Inca - Mendoza
Transfer from Penitentes - Aconcagua park entrance - Penitentes.
All the meals during the mountain itinerary.
Transfers from Airport to hotel.
Complete common Equipment (Sleeping tents, cooking gear ,stoves)
Mules transfer equipment until 20 kg. each person way up and back.
You are
responsible for
Personal equipment
Extra expenses to desert itinerary or in case of a rescue
Porters
Aconcagua Park permit fee
Transport charges equipment exceeding 20 kg.
Travel insurance.
Extra food and beverages 
Departures
and price list
General
information
Plan well in advance - you are
going to attempt a mayor peak, so, allow you time to think about it. One
of the most important aspects of the climbing begins before the trip,
and it´s self confidence.
Check out and read carefully everyone of the items we will require you
, they are not there cause we just wanna bother you in finding them, they
are essential!!!! You can hire some gear from us at a reasonably cost,
or in a specialized shop, let us to help you in this duty, and ask about
what you doubt, we will be looking after you for a long time, and it comprehends
the period of pre departure.
You are in holidays!!!! Sometimes we have to take dramatic decisions during
a expeditions in terms of orienting attention of people who are not focused
properly, due to working issues. Remember, let your mind and soul flight
and avoid to be plugged, only like this you will feel the experience as
a whole and enjoy what you are doing.
Build up your fitness routine throughout your trip preparations. Self
prepare your mind for the challenging times you will experience. As a
general rule, the people who are specting more demanding challenges than
they really are, do not reduce they stamina as soon as the hard times
arose.
Pack your luggage with ample time before departure and in one final process
so nothing is overlooked, nor extraneous items brought along.
Maintain your humor sense during all the expeditions, it will help everyone
as we all work better in a good environment. AEA Expeditions will be keeping
you and solving all the logistics items for you, so, relax and enjoy your
expedition.
Hot to get Mendoza City?
By plane
Two airlines does actually operate the
route to Mendoza Internattional Airport, from cities like Buenos Aires,
Cordoba, San Juan, and Santiago (CHILE). There is a minimum of two flights
per day, up to five, so, check out the day you are planning to get the
city, and re confirm your tickets by telephone 72 hs Beforehand It´s
free and saves you of getting a headache, specially during holidays time,
and celebrations like Christmas.
You can get special prices if you get your tickets 15 days in advance,
so, consider it as a good chance to save money that you may spend in getting
some of the hundred delicious varieties of wines to gift your family or
friends!!!
From Buenos Aires
http://www.aerolineas.com.ar
http://www.Lan.com
From Santiago de Chile
http://www.Lan.com
By bus or highway
The highways between Buenos Aires and
Mendoza are in very good conditions, and signaled, anyway, depending on
the route you are planning, check out the conditions. The roads in Argentine
are not as bad as other South American countries, although they are far
away of some western standards, specially in terms of assistance.
From Buenos Aires, there are
about 1200km, which could be covered within one day. Anyway we do not
suggest such a long journeys like this cause it involves a risk we do
not accept at all. Take 2 or three days, and enjoy the great places on
the way, having a good perception of what pampa means, and the incredible
little mountains of Cordoba or San Luis...
From Santiago de Chile, you drive straightaway into Mendoza, crossing
the stunning Andes through the Cristo Redentor Check In point, next to
the Aconcagua sightseeing point. It takes, in bus around 8 Hours. (200km,
and customs.

We
expect form you to get this following gear list
Aconcagua valley
Approach
Long shirt
Long trekking trousers
Sun Hat and neck shade cover
Walking poles ( highly recommendable)
Trekking boots waterproof and breathable recommendable.
An extra pair of socks
Head gear
Balaclava
Fleece cap ( Biny)
Fleece neck
Hands
Fleece or windstopper gloves 1 pair min
Liner thin gloves
Mittens and Gore tex or similar one, over mitts.
Note:
It´s definitely not allowed to bring gloves and overmits.
Torso
Capilene, thermax, or polypropylene liner top.
1 pair minimum
Two fleece jumpers( 1 polartec 200 or 300 and 1 windstopper).
Down jacket 500g down filled recommendable
Shell jacket
Legs
Capilene, thermax, or polypropylene liner bottom.
1 pair minimum
Fleece trousers
Shell trousers
Foot
Expedition Socks: 2 pairs min ( one Reserved
for summit day in a sealed bag)
Liner socks (Hydrofoil, or similar): Idem
Plastic double Boots or triple ones (highly recommendable supergaiters)
Gaiters (long ones) If not supergaiters
Hardware
Crampons ( semiautomatic recommendable)
Ice Axe (long regular one) with wrist strap
Head Torch (dual LED and regular one recommendable)
Sun glasses (a very good ones) They must to be category 4.
Sun glases ( good ones ) as an extra pair
Goggles.
Expedition Kitbag. (Duffel)
Stainless Steel Vacuum Bottle 3/4 or 1 Lt recommendable.
Two bottles of policarbonate 2lts cap in between
Backpack at least 90 + 10 Lts of volume.
A swiss knife or multi use tweezer
A lighter
Accessories
Personal hygiene kit
Personal First aid kit.
Sun Screen SPF 40 Or higher.
Alarm Waterproof watch.
Sleeping gear
Sleeping bag 1kg Down filled recommendable
Rubber Sleeping Mattress
Documentation
Passport and/or permit entrance.
Optional equipment(*)
Walkman
a book to read at basecamp
satelital phone
a towel to use at basecamp
Pen and notebook
Agenda
Film camera
Video camera
Gps
Match cards
A pair of strap sandals
And secret pocket for your values and goods

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