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The
America´s Colossus is an awesome experience and magnificent challenge
for mountaineers. Climbers from all levels, attempts the summit all the
season, throughout the two regular routes. Aconcagua is a part of the
Parque Provincial Aconcagua which protects over 71,000 hectares around
the massif between the San Juan State limit, the Penitentes range, and
the international highway, at the south which is the last civilize point
before get in the park.
Our approach to the summit of Aconcagua is highly unique. We ascend via
the less traveled and more aesthetically pleasing Vacas Valley route.(Actually
a variation of the Vacas Valley route).This beautiful ascent offers a
rare climbing opportunity as we encounter fewer climbers and spend quiet
evenings in the rich mountain wilderness. During the 3-day trek to base
camp our gear is carried by mules.
We take the less traveled and more aesthetical Vacas Valley route, up
to Plaza Argentina, cause during the walk in, we´ll be able to enjoy
the quiet days in the great and non polluted wilderness at this side of
the mountain, take snapshots of the several several animals,such condors,almost
extinct fifteen years ago, and already recovered due to human intervention,and
ecological politics used to grow and multiply the few couples that were
found around in the area.
Our Polish Traverse Route itinerary
Day1: Members should arrive to the airport, where
an AEA Expeditions representative will be waiting for your convenience,
to be sure you´ll get the right hotel at the right time. During
late afternoon we use to enjoy a welcome brew with the whole group. After
completing the equipment checks, we enjoy a group "welcome" dinner in
Mendoza and good night's sleep after a long day of traveling.
Day2: Near Midday, we leave Mendoza towards the
Aconcagua Park permit office,which is located in the central park, and
them in the same vehicle, we bus to Penitentes town. Once been there,
we organize mule loads and spend the night in a refuge dormitory style.
Day3: We drive to the trail head, 12 km away of town, and begin our walk
in. All of our expedition food and equipment will be carried by mules,
which will be join us in Pampa De Leñas by mid afternoon.
Day4: We continue our approach walking up the
Rio de Las Vacas, about 17km to the Casa de Piedra(3300m). Here, we'll
be able to take our first view of Aconcagua´s east face and Polish
Glacier. We set our camp near by Casa de Piedra where there are a ranges
check up point. (5o 6 hours).
Day5: We begin early, right after an nutritive
breakfast, to be able to get the Base camp near the time, and after crossing
the Rio de Las Vacas, we hike 16Km up the steep, narrow Relinchos Valley
to the flat old moraine of Plaza Argentina, where we set up base camp
for the next days(6-8 hours)
Day6: Acclimatization schedule rest day, we incorporate several schedule
days as it is, to improve the chances of getting a proper acclimatization,
and increase your success rates. We use this day, to walk around the base
camp, and take snapshots of all the majestic mountains, near the area.
Day7: Carry loads upon our first altitude. The
Camp one (4900m) was called like this, cause it was used as the first
one above base camp during the Polish ´34 expedition which is merely
recognized as one of the strongest groups in the Andean history. They
made the first ascension of Polish Glacier, as well as many other new
routes in the highest peaks of Argentina and Chilean Andes.4Hs.
Day8: Acclimatization schedule rest day.
Day9: We move up to Camp for overnight.
Day10: Acclimatization rest day at Camp I.
Day11: From Camp I, we take the scree straight
up, through a succession of Switch backs, passing the Ameghino Col to
Camp II (5850m) at the base of the Polish Glacier without doubts one of
the most impressive places to camp, and take pictures of the Penitentes
Range, Mercedario and Ramada Range.
It will take us approximately 6 hours from Camp I. Here we'll leave
food and gear return back down to Camp I to sleep.
Day12: We move up to Camp II to definitively,
this is one of the hardest days, it use to take more than 7 hours, and
the altitude will make us feel what the "Thin Air" means.
SUMMIT DAY: Summit day! Weather permitting. We start early in our special
day, plenty of a mix of anxiety and excitation, we use lamps for a very
first hours of ascension, so the entire group could be be contemplate
as a lighted queue on the slopes, and the breath noises, far away to be
quiet, makes this day "The very special day of your lifetime".
We surround the north east face, climb the north ridge, up to Independence
ruins refuge, where we join the normal route, from there we traverse the
West Face, up to the canaleta, the very well known final path, up to the
guanaco ridge.
Day14: Second Summit attempt in case of bad weather.
Day15: Third Summit attempt.
Day16: After packing up all our staff and checking
that any rubbish or anything from the trip could affect the campsite,
visually or polluting it, we start walk out to Plaza Argentina close to
noon, we'll be back down there at mid afternoon.
Day17: Rest day at base camp, a bath will be recommendable to acclimatize
ourselves to the next difficulties, to return to the city.
Day18: Walk out to Pampa de Lenas, the arrieros
will cook an succulent Asado Criollo for us, always respecting the arrieros
bible, we must to keep them happy, feeding them, and keeping their glass
of wine well fill during the barbecue. At this day, we´ll be able
to taste a great Merlot or cabernet sauvignon that grown very well on
this lands.
Day19: Walk out to Punta de Vac as - Where we
get the mini bus, and drive to Mendoza. During the night, we use to enjoy
a celebration dinner, and taste all the delicious dishes of the finest
Argentinean cooking.
Challenging
Expedition
Fitness level required: Excellent,
excelent equilibrium required
Departures
an price list 2006 - 2007
Price
Includes
Two hotel nights accommodation in
Mendoza, breakfast included
One refuge night accommodation in Penitentes all meals included.
Transfer Mendoza - Puente del Inca - Mendoza
Transfer from Penitentes - Aconcagua park entrance - Penitentes.
All the meals during the mountain itinerary.
Transfers from Airport to hotel.
Complete common Equipment (Sleeping tents, cooking gear ,stoves)
Mules transfer equipment until 20 kg. each person way up and back.
You are responsible for
Personal equipment
Additional hotels, meals and transportation should the climb end early
Charges incurred as a result of delays beyond the control of Alpine
Ascents
Extra expenses to desert itinerary or in case of a rescue
Porters
Aconcagua Park permit fee
Transport charges equipment exceeding 20 kg.
Travel insurance.
Extra food and beverages

General
information
Plan well in advance - you
are going to attempt a mayor peak, so, allow you time to think about
it. One of the most important aspects of the climbing begins before
the trip, and it´s self confidence.
Check out and read carefully everyone of the items we will require you
, they are not there cause we just wanna bother you in finding them,
they are essential!!!! You can hire some gear from us at a reasonably
cost, or in a specialized shop, let us to help you in this duty, and
ask about what you doubt, we will be looking after you for a long time,
and it comprehends the period of pre departure.
You are in holidays!!!! Sometimes we have to take dramatic decisions
during a expeditions in terms of orienting attention of people who are
not focused properly, due to working issues. Remember, let your mind
and soul flight and avoid to be plugged, only like this you will feel
the experience as a whole and enjoy what you are doing.
Build up your fitness routine throughout your trip preparations. Self
prepare your mind for the challenging times you will experience. As
a general rule, the people who are specting more demanding challenges
than they really are, do not reduce they stamina as soon as the hard
times arose.
Pack your luggage with ample time before departure and in one final
process so nothing is overlooked, nor extraneous items brought along.
Maintain your humor sense during all the expeditions, it will help everyone
as we all work better in a good environment. AEA Expeditions will be
keeping helping and solving all the logistics items for you, to keep
you focussed in enjoying the expedition.
Hot to get Mendoza City?
By plane
Two airlines does actually operate
the route to Mendoza Internattional Airport, from cities like Buenos
Aires, Cordoba, San Juan, and Santiago (CHILE). There is a minimum of
two flights per day, up to five, so, check out the day you are planning
to get the city, and re confirm your tickets by telephone 72 hs Beforehand
It´s free and saves you of getting a headache, specially during
holidays time, and celebrations like Christmas.
You can get special prices if you get your tickets 15 days in advance,
so, consider it as a good chance to save money that you may spend in
getting some of the hundred delicious varieties of wines to gift your
family or friends!!!
From Buenos Aires
http://www.aerolineas.com.ar
http://www.Lan.com
From Santiago de Chile
http://www.Lan.com
By bus or highway
The highways between Buenos Aires
and Mendoza are in very good conditions, and signaled, anyway, depending
on the route you are planning, check out the conditions. The roads in
Argentine are not as bad as other South American countries, although
they are far away of some western standards, specially in terms of assistance.
From Buenos Aires, there are
about 1200km, which could be covered within one day. Anyway we do not
suggest such a long journeys like this cause it involves a risk we do
not accept at all. Take 2 or three days, and enjoy the great places
on the way, having a good perception of what pampa means, and the incredible
little mountains of Cordoba or San Luis...
From Santiago de Chile, you drive straightaway into Mendoza, crossing
the stunning Andes through the Cristo Redentor Check In point, next
to the Aconcagua sightseeing point. It takes, in bus around 8 Hours.
(200km, and customs.

We
expect form you to get this following gear list
Aconcagua valley
Approach
Long shirt
Long trekking trousers
Sun Hat and neck shade cover
Walking poles ( highly recommendable)
Trekking boots waterproof and breathable recommendable.
An extra pair of socks
Head gear
Balaclava
Fleece cap ( Biny)
Fleece neck
Hands
Fleece or windstopper gloves 1 pair min
Liner thin gloves
Mittens and Gore tex or similar one, over mitts.
Note:
It´s definitely not allowed to bring gloves and overmits.
Torso
Capilene, thermax, or polypropylene liner
top. 1 pair minimum
Two fleece jumpers( 1 polartec 200 or 300 and 1 windstopper).
Down jacket 500g down filled recommendable
Shell jacket
Legs
Capilene, thermax, or polypropylene liner
bottom. 1 pair minimum
Fleece trousers
Shell trousers
Foot
Expedition Socks: 2 pairs min ( one Reserved
for summit day in a sealed bag)
Liner socks (Hydrofoil, or similar): Idem
Plastic double Boots or triple ones (highly recommendable supergaiters)
Gaiters (long ones) If not supergaiters
Hardware
Crampons ( semiautomatic recommendable)
Ice Axe (long regular one) with wrist strap
Head Torch (dual LED and regular one recommendable)
Sun glasses (a very good ones) They must to be category 4.
Sun glases ( good ones ) as an extra pair
Goggles.
Expedition Kitbag. (Duffel)
Stainless Steel Vacuum Bottle 3/4 or 1 Lt recommendable.
Two bottles of policarbonate 2lts cap in between
Backpack at least 90 + 10 Lts of volume.
A swiss knife or multi use tweezer
A lighter
Accessories
Personal hygiene kit
Personal First aid kit.
Sun Screen SPF 40 Or higher.
Alarm Waterproof watch.
Sleeping gear
Sleeping bag 1kg Down filled recommendable
Rubber Sleeping Mattress
Documentation
Passport and/or permit entrance.
Optional equipment(*)
Walkman
a book to read at basecamp
satelital phone
a towel to use at basecamp
Pen and notebook
Agenda
Film camera
Video camera
Gps
Match cards
A pair of strap sandals
And secret pocket for your values and goods

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