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The
America's Colossus is an awesome experience and challenge for mountaineers. Climbers from all over the world, attempts the summit between December and March, throughout the two regular routes. Aconcagua is a part of the Parque Provincial Aconcagua, a state protected of 71,000 hectares around the massif between San Juan State limit, Penitentes range, and the international highway,
lying south and our starting point from where we begin the trek.
Our approach to the summit of Aconcagua is highly unique. We ascend via the less traveled and more aesthetically pleasing Vacas Valley
route. Actually a variation of the Vacas Valley route). This beautiful ascent offers a rare climbing opportunity as we encounter fewer climbers and spend quiet evenings in the rich mountain wilderness. During the 3-day trek to base camp our gear is carried by mules, allowing us to enjoy the great folk of muleteers and their particular lifestyle.
Wilderness on this side of the mountain, has a particular presence as we will get chances to still several animals, such condors, chinchillas, guanacos, matuastos, and hundreds of birds that use to get near us during afternoon to be
fed in your hands!!!
Our Polish Traverse Route itinerary
Day1: On arrival to the airport, an AEA Expeditions representative will be waiting for
you, to be sure you'll get the right hotel at the right time. During late afternoon we use to enjoy a welcome brew with the whole group and doing the equipment check out, and a "welcome" dinner in Mendoza in the several restaurants near the city.
Day2: At Midday, we drive to the Aconcagua Park permit office, located in the downtown, and them in the same vehicle, we drive towards Penitentes sky resort. Once we arrive to today's destination, there is a lot to do organizing mule loads. Our leaders will take care of it, thus there are always willing hands aiming to help us in this duty, feeling a part of the expedition as a whole.
We overnight in a refuge dormitory style.
Day3: We drive to the head of valley, 12 km away from town, and begin our trek. All of our expedition food and equipment will be carried by mules, to join us at Pampa De Leņas by mid afternoon, where we'll get access to our gear. This way there won't be much to carry, making our trek more relaxing and less energy consuming.
Day4: We continue our approach walking up the
Rio de Las Vacas, it's and enjoyable 17km trek to the Casa de Piedra(3300m) ( house of stones), near where we set camp. The first view of Aconcagua east face and Polish
Glacier will arise between the mountains of Relinchos Valley. It's for certain one of the most impressing views of the Colossus.
Day5: We begin early, right after a nutritive
breakfast, to get enough time to reach Base camp in time, and set our own base camp. We use to ride horses across the Vacas river, a delight if you considere what to be shivering could be at 8am!!!. Suddenly in 20 minutes walk, we will be walking along the narrow Relinchos Valley, doing several river cross and keeping an eye on the route we will be following days later. The walk is quite easy, thus, altitude could be a complicated partney if we do not pay attention on it.
The flat old moraine of Plaza Argentina, where we set up base camp
for the next days will be reach in (6-8 hours)
Day6: Acclimatization schedule rest day, we incorporate several schedule
days as thiss, to improve the chances of getting a proper acclimatization,
and increase your success rates. We use this day, to walk around the base
camp, and take snapshots of all the majestic mountains, near the area. Our major concern is to make you climb to YOUR Summit, regardless of what it means, a proper aclimatization schedule, away from rushes is the key to avoid complicattions for you and us, several years working in himalayas give us an idea of it.
Day7: Carry loads upon our first altitude Camp. C1 (4900m) was called like this, by the greatest explorators on the andes ever, the Polish´34 expedition expeditioners, they merely deserve to be remember for all of us as some of the strongest groups in the Andean history. They
made the first ascension of Polish Glacier, and in that way, they use and named the same spots we will be ussing to camp. We return to base camp for overnight. 4Hs.
Day8: Acclimatization schedule rest day.
Day9: Move to Camp for overnight, we made all carry already, thus it's not an easy day, there are still quite few things we need to carry, as our personal gear, and few common gear. Leaders will set a reasonable pace to avoid burning out legs, a common symphtom generated by a combinattion of altitude and lack of experience.
Day10: Carry loads to camp 1 Bis. It's a short day, we split the schedulle to move higher as we recognize there is much more chances of reaching last campsites in a excellent shape, just changing few hours schedule. We move all food and summit gear, to make the next days much easier.
Day11: Rest day at camp 1. It's an important day as we could be moving in two days, into the thin air!! We take our time to help you in the aclimatization process, and long schedulles, allows your body to adapt to this harsh environment.
From Camp I, we take the scree straight
up, through a succession of Switch backs, passing the Ameghino Col to
Camp II (5850m) at the base of the Polish Glacier without doubts one of
the most impressive places to camp, and take pictures of the Penitentes
Range, Mercedario and Ramada Range.
It will take us approximately 6 hours from Camp I. Here we'll leave
food and gear return back down to Camp I to sleep.
Day12: We move up to Camp II to definitively,
this is one of the hardest days, it use to take more than 7 hours, and
the altitude will make us feel what the "Thin Air" means.
SUMMIT DAY: Summit day! Weather permitting. We start early in our special
day, plenty of a mix of anxiety and excitation, we use lamps for a very
first hours of ascension, so the entire group could be contemplate
as a lighted queue on the slopes, and the breath noises, far away to be
quiet, makes this day "The very special day of your lifetime".
We surround the north east face, climb the north ridge, up to Independence
ruins refuge, where we join the normal route, from there we traverse the
West Face, up to the Canaleta, the very well known final path, up to the
guanaco ridge.
Day14: Second Summit attempt in case of bad weather.
Day15: Third Summit attempt.
Day16: After packing up all our staff and checking
that any rubbish or anything from the trip could affect the campsite,
visually or polluting it, we start walk out to Plaza Argentina close to
noon, we'll be back down there at mid afternoon.
Day17: Rest day at base camp, a bath will be recommendable to acclimatize
ourselves to the next difficulties, to return to the city.
Day18: Walk out to Pampa de Leņas, the Muleteers
will cook an succulent Asado Criollo for us, always respecting the Arrieros (Muleteers)
bible, we must to keep them happy, feeding them, and keeping their glass
of wine well fill during the barbecue. At this day, we'll be able
to taste a great Merlot or cabernet sauvignon that grown very well on
this lands.
Day19: Walk out to Punta de Vacas - Where we
get the mini bus, and drive to Mendoza. During the night, we use to enjoy
a celebration dinner, and taste all the delicious dishes of the finest
Argentinean cooking.
Challenging
Expedition
Fitness level required: Excellent,
excellent equilibrium required
Departures
an price list
Price
Includes
Two hotel nights accommodation in
Mendoza, breakfast included
One refuge night accommodation in Penitentes full board.
Transfer Mendoza - Penitentes - Mendoza
Transfer from Penitentes - Aconcagua park entrance - Penitentes.
Full board while on mountains.
Complete common Equipment (Sleeping tents, cooking gear ,stoves)
Mules transfer equipment up to 20 kg per person, all the way round.
You are responsible for
Personal equipment and/or gear.
Additional hotels, meals and transportation should the climb end early
Charges incurred as a result of delays beyond the control of AEA Expeditions
Extra expenses to desert itinerary or in case of a rescue
Porters
Aconcagua Park permit fee
Transport charges equipment exceeding 20 kg.
Travel insurance.
Extra food and beverages

General
information
Plan well in advance - you
are going to attempt a mayor peak, so, allow you time to think about
it. One of the most important aspects of the climbing begins before
the trip, and it's self confidence.
Check out and read carefully everyone of the items we will require you
, we include them because we know it for certain you will just need
them,
they are essential!!!! You can hire gear from us at a reasonably
cost, or in a specialized shop, let us to help you in this duty, and
ask about what you doubt, we will be looking after you for a long time,
and it comprehends the pre departure days.
You are in holidays!!!! Sometimes we must take dramatic decisions
during an expedition in terms of orienting attention of people who are
not focused properly, due to working issues. Remember, let your mind
relax, avoid to be plugged, only like this you will feel
the experience as a whole and enjoy the unique moment of beeing a part
of a high altitude expedition.
Build up your fitness routine throughout your trip preparations. Self
prepare your mind for the challenging times you will experience. As
a general rule, the people who are specting more demanding challenges
than they really are, do not reduce they stamina as soon as the hard
times arose.
Pack your luggage with ample time before departure and in one final
process so nothing is overlooked, nor extraneous items brought along.
Maintain your humor sense during all the expeditions, it will help everyone
as we all work better in a good environment. AEA Expeditions will solve all the logistics
issues for you, to keep
you focussed in enjoying the trip.
Hot to get Mendoza City?
By plane
Two airlines does actually operate
the route to Mendoza Internattional Airport, from cities like Buenos
Aires, Cordoba, San Juan, and Santiago (CHILE). There is a minimum of
two flights per day, up to five, so, check out the day you are planning
to get the city, and re confirm your tickets by telephone 72 hs Before.
It´s free and saves you of getting a headache, specially during
high season, and celebrations like Christmas.
You can get special prices if you get your tickets 30 days in advance,
so, consider it as a good chance to save money that you may spend in
getting some of the hundred delicious varieties of wines to gift your
family or friends!!!
From Buenos Aires
http://www.aerolineas.com.ar
http://www.Lan.com
From Santiago de Chile
http://www.Lan.com
By bus or highway
The highways between Buenos Aires
and Mendoza are in very good conditions, and signaled, anyway, depending
on the route you are planning, check out the conditions. The roads in
Argentine are not as bad as other South American countries, although
they are far away of some western standards, specially in terms of assistance.
From Buenos Aires, there are
about 1200km, which could be covered within one day. Anyway we do not
suggest such a long journeys like this cause it involves a risk we do
not accept at all. Take 2 or three days, and enjoy the great places
on the way, having a good perception of what pampa means, and the incredible
little mountains of Cordoba or San Luis...
From Santiago de Chile, you drive straightaway into Mendoza, crossing
the stunning Andes through the Cristo Redentor Check In point, next
to the Aconcagua sightseeing point. It takes, in bus around 8 Hours.
(200km, and customs.

We
expect form you to get this following gear list
Aconcagua valley
Approach
Long shirt
Long trekking trousers
Sun Hat and neck shade cover
Walking poles ( highly recommendable)
Trekking boots waterproof and breathable recommendable.
An extra pair of socks
Head gear
Balaclava
Fleece cap ( Biny)
Fleece neck
Hands
Fleece or windstopper gloves 1 pair min
Liner thin gloves
Mittens and Gore tex or similar one, over mitts.
Note:
It´s definitely mandatory to bring Mittens and Overmits, instead of gloves and overmits.
Torso
Capilene, thermax, or polypropylene liner
top. 1 pair minimum
Two fleece jumpers( 1 polartec 200 or 300 and 1 windstopper).
Down jacket 500g down filled, with hood.
Rain jacket
Legs
Capilene, thermax, or polypropylene liner
pnats, 1 pair minimum
Fleece trousers (200 or 300 fleece)
Shell trousers
Foot
Expedition Socks: 2 pairs min ( one Reserved
for summit day in a sealed bag)
Liner socks (Hydrofoil, or similar): Idem
Plastic double Boots or triple ones (highly recommendable supergaiters)
Gaiters (long ones) If not supergaiters
Hardware
Crampons ( semiautomatic recommendable)
Long Ice Axe, it must to have a wrist loop big enough to wear over the
mittens.
Head Torch (dual LED and regular one recommendable)
Sun glasses (a very good ones) They must to be category 4.
Sun glases ( good ones ) as an extra pair
Goggles.
Expedition Kitbag. (Duffel)
Stainless Steel Vacuum Bottle 3/4 or 1 Lt recommendable.
Two bottles of policarbonate 2lts cap in between
Backpack at least 90 + 10 Lts of volume.
A swiss knife or multi use tweezer
A lighter
Accessories
Personal hygiene kit
Personal First aid kit. ( check out this in pre departure documents)
Sun Screen SPF 40 Or higher.
Lipstick balm SPF 20+
Alarm Waterproof watch.
Sleeping gear
Sleeping bag 1kg Down filled recommendable
Rubber Sleeping Mattress
Documentation
Passport and/or permit entrance.
Optional equipment(*)
Walkman
A book to read at basecamp
Sat phone
A towel to use at basecamp
Pen and notebook
Agenda
Film camera
Video camera
Gps
Match cards
A pair of strap sandals
And money belt for your values and goods

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